You don’t go grab a barbell and load it up with your 1RM and start your workout there, do you? Of course not. So why do so many people set there erg to 10 and set off to row? Good question huh? Read on and find out why setting your erg at 10 is almost never a good idea.
For starters, let’s discuss briefly how indoor rowers work, because I’m an engineer and this is my chance to be nerdy. =) When you think of rowing, you think of boats and rowing on the water, right? Guess how much water is used in the operation of these Concept 2 rowers? That’s right, none! Well, unless you are sweaty like me, then things might get a little damp. But I digress!
Indoor rower doesn’t sound as cool as calling it an erg. Erg comes from the word ergometer, which simply means a device that measures the amount of work being performed.
You knew there was no water involved, but do you know what provides the resistance with each and every pull you make? Here’s a hint… you breathe it. Yup, air! Good ole air provides all the pulse quickening and pain inducing you could ever want, and yet always leaves you gasping for more air. Air is a tricky character sometimes.
Inside the round chamber on the rower is a device called a flywheel. A flywheel stores rotational energy. Also, the flywheel has a high moment of inertia which is demonstrated by the difficulty/extra energy that must be spent at the beginning of your row to get the wheel spinning (aka, you must give more torque!). The stored energy couples with this same high inertia to produce the momentum that keeps the wheel spinning after you stop pulling on the chain.
Got all that? Good.
That leads us to the lever on the side of the flywheel house, the one numbered 1-10. This adjusts the damper on the side of the flywheel chamber. Changing the damper setting changes the amount of air flow into the flywheel. And as we discussed earlier, air is what is providing the resistance on our rows.
A higher damper setting brings more air into the housing, which means there is more resistance for the wheel to spin against. Also, more air will slow the wheel down quicker, meaning you have to do more work to accelerate the wheel on your next pull.
As you might expect, a lower setting allows less air which makes spinning easier, basically the opposite of the above paragraph!
So, rowing with a damper setting at 10 gives a better workout than setting it at 6, right?
No.
No!
No!!!
If you’re someone that automatically puts the damper setting at 10 because you think that will give you the best workout, stop. If you’re a coach that automatically puts the damper setting at 10 because you think that will give your athletes the best workout, stop.
First, you’re wrong. Second, you might be promoting injury to occur. Third, you’re probably not achieving the best results at 10.
Picture it this way. A 10 setting would be a barge. Not very nimble in the water, takes a lot of work to move it. A 4-5 would be a kayak or a boat that was made to race and move through the water. A 1 would be Jesus and you’d basically be walking on water with no resistance.
However, once you get a barge moving, it moves. It takes a lot longer to slow down. You have to keep rowing in a kayak or you’ll start to slow pretty quickly. (inertia!!)
On the erg, a higher setting damper requires more work to move the wheel because of resistance. The rower measures that accordingly and the result is you go “further” in your digital distance. A lower damper setting may take two strokes to equal the distance of one stroke done at a 10 damper, but the load on muscular strength per pull will be less with the lower. And no, in this situation 2 pulls at lower damper does not exactly equal one pull at higher damper.
What happens when you lift heavier weight for high reps? There is a greater chance for form to break down. What happens when form breaks down? Injuries become more prevalent. The same philosophy holds true with the erg. Your lower back may be more susceptible to injury at a higher setting if your form isn’t great. As most of us probably don’t have perfect rowing form.
So the question becomes, what damper setting should you use? The answer is: let the erg tell you!
I’m no expert, and there honestly doesn’t appear to be an expert on damper setting. There are recommendations, and I’ll explain those now.
There’s a thing called drag factor that you can measure on your erg. Turn the display on (or reset it) to bring up the main menu. Select the display drag factor option. Row for a little bit, at least 10 strokes going at whatever you consider your normal (not sprint) pace to be. The drag factor will calculate for you.
Again, I’m not an expert and I’m not a coach… yet. But consensus that I’ve researched says there is no need for anyone (non-professional) to have a drag factor over 130. Beginners may want a drag factor under 100. Someone that has been working out for a while and is comfortable on an erg will probably be around 110-120 for their drag factor.
So row a dozen or so pulls and see how it feels. If the drag factor reads too high or low, then adjust the damper and do it again. Compare your new drag factor to your old one, and most importantly, compare how you feel between the two. Each person will be different. Most people will probably end up with a damper setting between 3 and 7. Not 10.
Rowing with too high of a drag factor can be detrimental to your workout and could lead to injury. Using the correct drag factor focuses on developing good technique, improved coordination skills, and ensures the optimum biomechanical and physiological response.
Now get out there and properly row row row your boat erg!
Your turn -> What setting do you row at?
Very interesting. I never set it at 10 but almost always go with 7…anything lower almost always feels too easy…I’m going to test the drag thing out though and see what I can come up with there. Thanks, as always, for the great post!
Katie@LifesNextBigStep recently posted…Labor Day trip to Charleston
I bet your 7 is close to right on if you’ve played with the setting some. But yeah test anyways!
Okay, so you lost me for a bit with all the technical specs and such, but I learned something new here about finding an ideal setting! I didn’t know that about the drag factor!
Last night had to row 4x400s (AWFUL WOD with HEAVY KBs).. and we set it between 5-6. I have no idea why other than that’s what they always seem to be set at.
I just acquired a rower for home so will have to play with the drag setting sometime!
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I’m 100% sure I set my rower too high. Also we only have two ergs so we don’t incorporate rowing much. I wish we did more because I like to row!
What? You got your own rower?
Jennifer Charles recently posted…It’s Not CrossFit
I may not understand all the engineer talk (though I think I followed the basic gist) but thankfully since starting CrossFit in May, I learned that I don’t need to have it on 10. For the most part I keep it at 6 and the 1000m at 6 this morning was tough enough!
Katie @ Talk Less, Say More recently posted…A Week Of No Nut Butter (GASP!)
No doubt, no matter what the number, rowing will give you a good workout! Gonna take one with you on your tour? =)
Love knowing the tech side to the equipment we use – helps me understand it’s purpose more, if that make sense!
I usually have it on 7 – but that is only because it’s where coach sets it!
Jen @ Chase the Red Grape recently posted…CrossFit – The Paleo Experiment!
Definitely makes sense! I love knowing how things work. It helps me focus on how to use the equipment more efficiently.
Thanks for the explanation! My engineer hubby was asking how the rowers work; now I can tell him! Rowing is one of my better CF movements (or was pre-injury). Even with rowing being my “strong suit,” I found I do best at 5-6.
What? You have an engineer husband and he didn’t want to find out for himself? Boo! He loses engineer points haha!
Ours are usually set to 10 for no reason that’s ever been explained to me. Not having any knowledge about what it does, I had no reason to change it, or fool with it. Now I do; thanks!
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No problem! Share your new found knowledge with the rest of your box!
You have a gift for explaining technical things to non-technical people because not only did i follow the whole explanation, I’m fascinated by it. The whole thing about the barge vs kayak vs Jesus made it so clear! Not to sound like that Internet meme of the cat sitting in a suit at the kitchen table but, I should start rowing.
Charlotte @ Commitness to Fitness recently posted…If Socrates Had Been a Food Blogger (TOL)
I have no idea what meme you’re referring too, but the rest of your comment totally made my day! Yay!! =)
This post = awesome. I was *literally* just telling someone this weekend how I need to become more methodical about my rowing. Right now I just go balls to the walls and let the damper set somewhere in the middle-ish. Not conducive … especially when competing for meters!
Alex @ Alex Tries it Out recently posted…One Year of Crossfit (Some perspective)
Hey thanks Alex! Sometimes it’s better to work smarter rather than harder.
I usually set it between 7 and 8. I run out of breath faster on lower settings and the higher settings fatigue my legs too fast. I am totally going to test my drag factor. And, you’re right. “Erg” sounds a lot cooler than “rower.” From now on, I’m erg-in’ it.
Jennifer Charles recently posted…It’s Not CrossFit
Erg all the way! I haven’t actually tried a WOD with my “proper” setting yet. I’m super curious to see how I feel, and then adjust from that.
Wow, you really let your inner nerd out with this one! haha 😉 I kid.
I typically set mine between 5 and 6. Although, I am a terrible rower. I contribute it to being all of 5’2. Ah well, I’ve got all you tall people beat when it comes to burpees.
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Shelly I deleted half the nerd crap out of there and look how much was still left! Haha!
5’2″ is a good height though. That’s probably my favorite height. Rowing be damned in sacrifice of shortness for ya!
I train in my garage gym, and bought a C2 2 days ago. Talk about a blog that is right on the spot. I’ll run tests at different settings to see how I do.
Thanks Chris.
Yay timing! Since I’ve tested my drag factor now and did the Jackie benchmark over the weekend, I’ve discovered I like my setting a little higher, more in the 140-150 range for drag factor. This feels best for me. So now I will focus on form and trying to reduce that number with better mechanics and see how it feels again after a couple months. Enjoy that awesome garage gym!
We make this mistake almost every day…definitely going to dial back to about 6 or 7, especially with the amount of meters we try to row at a time. Good read!
Thanks! Never had to row for too far a distance, but in doing 1000m it definitely felt better to have my damper dialed back!
I’ve heard that the rowing machine is the ultimate fitness machine because it works the whole body and it’s a cardio machine! I, however, don’t use it because I’m not 100% sure how to and don’t want to look like a doof at the gym ha! Someone come help me!! 😉
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What, you mean Katie didn’t show you when y’all were together? Now that’s a terrible CrossFit friend! Haha. I do enjoy rowing, I would much rather row than run. And being a goof at the gym is part of the initiation, everyone has to do it! =)
i’ve always wondered about this! i set it to 10. hmm… now i must change it! 7 perhaps?
Seven is where I found I like to set mine, so… Good choice!!
How I hate & love rowing…great article, thanks for pointing out all the geeky science & engineering references surrounding this beast. Time to stop trying to be “that guy” and figure out where I should really be setting the damper to get the best results. Thanks!!
I mean, there are times when you want to go a little heavier with the resistance, but I think it is good and beneficial to know the setting that matches your body for training purposes.
I never knew this was a thing until i heard one of the Barbell Shrugged videos. I do have a question when you start what number should you have it when running the test? that’s the only thing I don’t understand. Might try it tomorrow and see if I could figure it out just in case you don’t have time to reply back .
Thanks for sharing this good reading material …
Hey Louie, sorry I didn’t get back with you quickly. You probably already tested out your erg by now. I would say start at a damper of 5, right in the middle, and adjust from there. If anything, I’d start a little lower rather than higher. Hope that helps, and I appreciate you reading.
That’s probably one of the best explanations I’ve seen for how a rowing machine works, good job Chris! You’re absolutely right and I also made this mistake when I was a beginner and this serves as a good reminder to myself of how to use it properly. Thanks 🙂
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Thanks! Glad it could help! I love trying to understand things better and if it is something I struggled with, chances are at least someone else does too so I share.
Great article!
I am an ex collegiate rower and now a crossfitter. I think that rowing is one of the big mysteries of the crossfit community.
I agree with most of what you have to say, except that you will get more distant per stroke at a higher damper setting. If you are applying the same force/same split time to each stroke you will get the same distance regardless of damper setting.
My understanding of the technical side of this is that the lever controls the amount of air allowed into the fly wheel chamber. The more air the more resistance. The more resistance the harder it is too get the wheel spinning. Conversely, the more resistance against the wheel the faster it will slow down. If you take one hard stroke at a damper 10 and the same hard stroke a damper setting 3 the wheel will continue to spin longer at the lower setting.
The key to rowing at a lower damper setting is accelerating the handle and allowing for a long recovery.
A good gauge of this is try to row a piece with as few strokes per minute as possible. Establish a good solid drive and then allow for a slow floating recovery. I row almost all my pieces at a high 3 low 4, I’m a big guy and the fastest rower in my box. High damper settings should be only used for very short 10-20 second sprints.